In the hostel I shared a 4-bed dorm with a guy from Stuttgart called Benni. He had been travelling for about 4 years picking up casual work although he was a boatbuilder. He wore a traditional costume and this seemed to get him attention everywhere he went. In the middle of the night another guy arrived and made a right racket. He was in the bunk above me and it seemed he was trying to make up his bed while he was actually in it… By about 5.30 I was fed up with his snoring so I got up for a look at the sunrise. Yesterday’s fog had lifted and there were great views over Tórshavn and the nearby island of Nólsoy.

Nólsoy is the home of Jens-Kjeld Jensen, the taxidermist. If you want to buy a stuffed puffin, he’s your man.

Tórshavn at 6am with Nólsoy across the water

About half a mile down the road from the hotel/hostel you get a really decent view of the Gundadalur complex where the national stadium, the Tórsvøllur, sits above the Gundaladur which is the shared home of B36 and HB. The huge building on the hill beyond is actually a bank.

The Tórsvøllur (back) dwarfs the Gundadalur (left) and third pitch (right)

If you drive into the car park you can actually walk over and see right into the Tórsvøllur so when there’s a big match on they probably shut off the whole street. Or maybe everybody’s so honest they just don’t bother… to say that you’ll probably be impressed by the floodlights here is a bit of an understatement.

War of the Worlds – every fitba fan would like one of these in the garden

There were some young boys training on the main pitch at the national stadium and a few parents watching. I can’t imagine this happening in Scotland.

You think maybe we’re away this week then?

The way the fixtures worked out, to get to Toftir in the afternoon I would have to forego a Premiership match at the Gundaladur. This meant I was missing a game where leaders KÍ from Klaksvík beat HB by 3-2 in front of 1500. So at noon I was watching a ladies game before zipping up to Toftir for 3pm.

A stand each at the Gundadalur, overlooked by the lights of the Tórsvøllur

From the picture above you can see the red and black of Havnar Bóltfelag and the black and white of B36 Tórshavn. That’s right, they have a stand each. Mind you the stands also house the admin and dressing rooms so it probably makes sense. There’s also a large modern stand on the other side.

B36 Tórshavn’s headquarters

B36 (formed in 1936) are the current Effodeildin champions and have won it twice in a row, although they won’t be making it the hat-trick in 2016. They have won it 11 times but city rivals HB, founded in 1904, have won it 22 times. B36 can console themselves with the fact that they inflicted on HB their heaviest league defeat, 10-0 in 1945.

KÍ from Klaksvík have been the pacesetters this season and the title will be going north, a 3-way contest between themselves, NSÍ and Víkingur.

The other stand at the Gundadalur – maybe in case they form a third club?

I would be having a look at B36 in the afternoon up in Toftir, but for now I was staying in the capital to see the women’s team of their rivals HB as they faced EBS/Skála who were involved in a title race themselves, as they tried to knock KÍ women off their perch. KÍ Kvinnur have been champions for 15 years in a row.

Handshakes for HB Kvinnur and ESB/Skála Kvinnur

The first half didn’t make for a great watch but just before half time, Valgerð Andreasen, who had just got herself booked, put HB ahead from the spot. EBS/Skála came roaring back after the break with goals from Ansy Sevdal, Durita Mikkelsen and
Margunn Lindholm to take the points in a 3-1 win. Admission was free and the crowd was recorded as 60 on FaroeSoccer.

HB’s 18 year old pocket rocket, Jónvá Hentze (10) in action
Jesus Wept, says Jónvá as no 17 Durita Mikkelsen heads the visitors in front
B36 Tórshavn
The Gundadalur in the curved world that is the iPhone panorama
Tórsvøllur from the south
Tinganes, home of the Føroya Landssýri or Faroese Parliament

So that was the morning’s football ration, and after grabbing a quick coffee and pastry at the petrol station on the  Vestari Ringvegur (Western Ring Road) I headed up north to see champions B36 in premiership action at relegation favourites B68 Toftir. That will be the fifth and final instalment of my Faroes epic.

Update – today (September 18th) KÍ took a massive step towards the Effodeildin title when they came from behind and scored in the last minute for a 2-1 win away at Víkingur. With 4 games remaining they have a 4-point lead over Víkingur and NSÍ Runavík.